FLIPSIDE MOTO

We both love Mexico and between us have been to Tulum, Cuernavaca, Taxco, San Miguel de Allende and the border cities -- in some cases multiple times. But it wasn't until a few years ago, on a spur of the moment trip, that we first saw Mexico from the vantage point of motorcycles.

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Neither of us had been to Puerta Vallarta before, and while we were loving the fantastic weather, beautiful beaches and historic Zona Romantica, we were looking for a bit more of an adventure. What is it about that? It's wonderful and astonishing to us that you can simply wonder about something and ask the universe a question, opening yourself to the possibilities, and just then that something appears (or, in this case, "rides in"). This is particularly true for motorcycles and motorcycle people. We just have a way of finding each other. Perhaps it's that we often drop a comment about motorcycles into a conversation and see if it catches, or a stranger sitting next to you in a cafe will lean in just a bit more closely when you are talking motos with a friend. In either case, it doesn't take long to strike up a new friendship with motos as the common ground, and that is just what happened in Puerto Vallarta when we found ourselves lucky enough to borrow a BMW for a few days.

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Our first ride was south of Puerto Vallarta about an hour and a half to Cajon de Peñas, where a dam filled the valley floor and created a massive lake surrounded by wide grassy banks. Getting out of the congestion of the city via a winding ride down the coast and then inland through flatlands was a refreshing change from the heat of the city. We weren't sure what to expect once we got there, but we had directions to find a restaurant that overlooked the lake. After a few missed turns, we found ourselves at the small Restaurante Las Palmas, with cold Coca Colas in hand and a plate of delicious fresh crawfish to enjoy. With food in our bellies and feeling more comfortable on the bike and roads, we managed to make some time and stop on the way back at the lovely Vallarta Botanical Gardens, where the beauty of the orchids and tropical plant specimens, along with more cool drinks on their balcony overlooking a river, were just the right ending to a great day.

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Over the course of this first trip to Puerto Vallarta, and then a second one a few years later, we also had opportunities to ride to Sayulita and San Sebastián del Oeste. But our favorite destination by far was a day trip to Tehualmixtle. Also south of Puerto Vallarta, but along the coast, this very small beach town is accessible by a more remote overland route that found us working our way along roads that were pitted, dotted with animals, and under construction. (By the time you read this, it may be a beautiful new highway.) Alenna, who hasn't done much off-road riding, was a bit concerned about taking a spill on the uneven dirt road -- you can hear it in her voice on the video. But, oh the reward, as we came over a rise, spotted the sea and descended into the tiny main square of the town. We watched as fishermen literally beached their boats, lifted out their catch, and walked it up to our restaurant. As families played on the beach in the small bay, we wondered aloud, "How are we so lucky to be here?" 

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Last but not least, if you plan to visit Puerto Vallarta, you must stay at the wonderful Hacienda Alemana, run by Mike and Irma, two of the most gracious hosts we've ever encountered. Their small hotel is an oasis in the city and while it isn't immediately on the beach (it's just a short walk away), it has a delicious German restaurant attached and a private, peaceful courtyard with a pool that melts all your cares away!